Traffic!!!!!!

We stand at the traffic light at a very busy street, waiting for the light to turn green. The stream of cars is continuous and it is very impressive. Mind you, I spent the last 2 years in London, yet I have not seen so many cars and motorbikes per square meter. Palermo has approximately half a million population and there are on average 3 cars per family. And there is also a rule to have a nice car, which you only keep in the garage (or mostly parked outside) and use only on special occasions; something like when you put on your only suit to go to a fancy party.

Cars are parked anywhere and everywhere – on crossing zebras, on the sidewalk, on the side of the street, and when there is no space at all, they just stop and park in the middle of the street, blocking the traffic one way. It is normal for a two-way street to have only one lane and cars take turn to pass. And that’s the norm. Nobody attempts to regulate or give a ticket since there is no point – the whole city needs to be towed away.

Let’s go back to the traffic lights we are waiting at. It takes longer than usual and we are chatting away. The light turns green, the traffic continues with the same speed. They don’t even attempt to slow down. No! I try crossing at the zebra, nobody even acknowledges my crossing. I am just absolutely gobsmacked and I am just asking,

“What is this?”

“Well, it’s like crossing the street when the red light is on, “ is the answer. “If there are no people waiting to cross, you don’t stop the car, you continue.”

“But I AM waiting to cross!”

“Yeah, but you were just standing there!”

“But it is a huge crossroad with cars coming from six directions!”

“Well, they all go at the same time anyways...”

We somehow managed to cross and we end up at another traffic crossroad. Palermo is a big city, as I mentioned. For my surprise, the cars to the left of us stop when the light turned green. I walk on the zebra with confidence and as I am just about to put my foot on the sidewalk, two motorbikes the size of a horse jump the line by crossing diagonally through the sidewalk. One of them slightly brushes my bag. They don’t even lower their speed, they weren’t even bothered by the mother with two little kids, which they literally flew over. The mother didn’t even blink, for her it’s normal, it’s even ok. I stand in shock, trying to apprehend what has just happened. Another biker cuts through and beeps at us since we are in his way. How dare we stand on the sidewalk!

The other night some friends picked us up in their car to go clubbing (which was experience of its own, I will write about it in a separate blog). We are riding on the way and we can hear an ambulance approaching from behind. There is an accident involving a motorbike in front of us (what a surprise, eh?) For my astonishment, cars give way and the ambulance passes and stops in front of us. It parks right in the middle of the road sideways and blocks both lanes. The medical staff leaves the door open and go on doing their job. All the cars stand beeping. I am told it is normal to spend 30 minutes in such a situation, waiting for the ambulance to leave. But it was a Saturday night and everyone on this road is going clubbing, therefore one brave car start making its way by climbing on the sidewalk and all the rest simply followed.

Also, it is imperative to mention that all this traffic is accompanied by numerous loud honks. As much as Italians speak, whenever they get in their cars, they honk instead. They honk continuously and for whatever reason. They honk not only to raise your attention, but also to announce their presence. And to show discontent, of course. The honking continues during the early hours as well.

I was amazed by all this noise that just didn’t make sense at all! For example, one is riding on the main road. That would mean that all other cars which need to cross or turn onto the main road, need to wait a suitable opportunity. But since nobody waits for no one, the cars on the main road are forced to beep to announce their presence each time they pass by an intersection. Can you imagine what that means?

Few days earlier I was enlightened that all the honking is actually an elaborate system of signals. Can you imagine? For example, when you want to give way, you honk once. That translates into: “Go!” Two honks mean: “I go!” Three honks: “Che minchia fai?!” That roughly translates into: “What the fuck are you doing!?”